Situated on the main drag of the town’s center, Daddy Mims’ concept is a welcome change to the dozen or so New American restaurants and bistros that have cropped up alongside it, but don’t expect to have a truly authentic Creole/Cajun meal.
Chef/owner John Mims’ tasting menu shows an understanding of Creole cuisine but some of the dishes fail to coax out that slow, rich flavor for which The Gulf is famous. For instance, I would have loved it if the shrimp atop the boursin-laden grits had been grilled–a nice char would have given the dish some much-needed smokiness. The braised short ribs were delicious and tender but unncecessarily drowned in a chocolate molé that competed mightily with the maple-infused sweet potato mash. The andouille quesadilla with chili aioli was spicy and flavorful but the sausage was a tad overdone. The savory crab cheesecake, however, was delicious.
After several decent tastings, I expected dessert to be a grand affair–warm beignets with café au lait, bourbon-spiked anything, or at the very least a crepe Suzette. Instead, we were served a brick hard triangle of a pedestrian poundcake ice cream sandwich with sliced strawberries and watery strawberry syrup. I felt let down–as if I’d gone to Mardi Gras and come away with no beads.