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New Orleans, that beloved jewel of the Gulf Coast, is easily the most underrated culinary destination in the country. In comparison to its flashier counterparts like New York, Chicago or Los Angeles, New Orleans’s food scene flies under most people’s radars, but overlooking the city is a mistake, indeed. The best way to learn about the rich and storied history of the region is to delve into its cuisine and its neighborhoods. In partnership with Hotels.com, this guide will highlight iconic New Orleans restaurants and districts—pack your bags (and elastic waist pants) and prepare to dine and recline in The Big Easy.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN NEW ORLEANS
A remnant from its Roman Catholic days, New Orleans is divided into parishes rather than counties and within those parishes are districts or neighborhoods where both New Orleans tradition and unique mini-cultures exist alongside each other. Each area has its own distinct landmarks, quirks, restaurants, and attractions. Some of the most popular areas to visit and stay in are the Garden District, French Quarter, and the French Market.
GARDEN DISTRICT
Commander’s Palace (1403 Washington Ave.)
The famous eatery, with its distinctive blue- and white-striped façade, has been a career launch pad for many celebrity chefs including jovial television superstar Emeril Lagasse. Current
executive chef Meg Bickford mines the depths of Creole cooking by blending inventive and traditional techniques—all while paying homage to New Orleans’ deep roots. Guests chow down on beautiful plates of food like the shrimp and tasso Henican while grooving to the soulful sounds of a troupe of good-natured in-house musicians at the traditional Sunday jazz brunch. For a truly decadent experience (and, yes, it is an experience), order the chef-curated multi-course tasting menu which highlights the best of the restaurant’s offerings. Wrap up any meal with the famous bread pudding which gets a tableside pour of crème Anglaise.
Where to stay: Book a room at the swanky House of Krewe 1860 in this New Orleans neighborhood and stroll through oak-shaded streets and peek at stately homes and, if you’re brave enough, the mausoleums in the city’s famous cemeteries.)
FRENCH QUARTER
Broussard’s (819 Conti St.)
How does a nearly century old restaurant stay on today’s public radar? Well, Broussard’s allows the menu to do the talking. Inspired by the original owner Joseph Broussard’s formal Parisian culinary training, his namesake restaurant continues to serve a hybrid menu of native Creole fare with distinctive French dishes. The saucy-titled Oysters Menage à Trois present a trio of bivalves topped with Andouille, Gruyère and crabmeat respectively. The overtly French menu relies heavily on the Gulf’s abundant offerings for its seafood heavy dishes but don’t overlook the land options because the wild mushroom-dusted ostrich filet is a thing of beauty.
The Court of Two Sisters (613 Royal St.)
One word: brunch. One-upping the traditional New Orleans Sunday jazz brunch, this landmark restaurant serves brunch daily—and what an event it is. Pace yourself as you navigate the spacious self-service food bar as the buffet is seemingly endless. The selection of hot and cold dishes can be overwhelming but there’s no such thing as boring buffet food here. Made-to-order omelet and carving stations, a host of specialty salads, and a huge offering of fresh-baked breads and house made desserts fill the bellies of hungry diners. As if the buffet selection isn’t enough, a full menu of entrées (think Creole jambalaya and duck à l’orange) are available as well. As the restaurant’s name implies, the open-air courtyard is the perfect place to take in the gorgeous scenery, listen to live music, and dine al fresco.
Central Grocery (923 Decatur St.)
This small, old-fashioned Italian-American grocery store offers a delicious deviation from traditional New Orleans food. Situated in the center of the bustling French Quarter, the pint-sized store has a big claim to fame: It is the birthplace of the famous muffuletta—a submarine-
style sandwich slathered in marinated olive salad and layered with mortadella, salami, ham, mozzarella and provolone. It is a regional delight and was a major culinary contribution from the city’s Italian immigrants. Sidle up to the sandwich counter and order like a pro; the renowned sandwiches are available in quarter, half, and whole portions.
Where to stay: The St. James Hotel, with its distinctive balconies, exudes quintessential New Orleans style and is right in the heart of the French Quarter. Have a seat on the balcony while sipping a Hurricane or toss some beads during Mardi Gras.
WAREHOUSE/CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT
Cochon (930 Tchoupitoulas St.)
Cajun cuisine is typically centered on the rustic cooking of the indigenous people of the bayou. An old joke states that Creole cooking is about feeding one family with three chickens and Cajun cooking is about feeding three families with one chicken. That, of course, is a reference to the historical financial differences between the two sects and really speaks to the resourcefulness of Cajun folks. Cochon’s menu reads like a list of Cajun greatest hits; tuck into shrimp and tasso ham with charred greens, smoked pork ribs with pickled watermelon or the most famous of Cajun meats—fried alligator served with a piquant chili garlic mayonnaise. Big flavors abound and it is not the place for timid palates; true southern Cajun chow is the focus here.
Emeril’s New Orleans (800 Tchoupitoulas St.)
Emeril Lagasse may be the king of the one-word catchphrase (“Bam!”) and often plays the court jester on television, but he’s a serious force to be reckoned with in the culinary world. He has numerous dining ventures around the country but he truly shines at his eponymous Tchoupitoulas Street charming rustic eatery. For over 20 years, Emeril’s has been serving authentic fare kicked up a notch or two with the addition of imaginative ingredients. Start with the smoky barbecue shrimp and work up to the tamarind glazed pork chop—an ample cut that will satisfy all porcine cravings; cap off the meal with the upside-down whisky pecan cake with sweet potato ice cream.
Drago’s (2 Poydras St.)
Charbroiled oysters are a decidedly unique Louisiana delicacy and no restaurant does them better than Drago’s. Sure, there’s a sundry list of classics on the menu—there are plenty of po’-boys, seafood dishes, gumbos and soups to satisfy those looking for the standards but those glorious oysters are the true highlights. Local Gulf oysters are topped with a blend of grated
Italian cheeses and herbs with a heavy-handed drenching of butter and garlic and served on the half-shell; after one taste, restaurant patrons soon draw the conclusion that this is the best way to enjoy an authentic ‘Lou’siana’ oyster.
Mother’s Restaurant (401 Poydras St.)
Be prepared to wait when visiting Mother’s because the line often snakes out of the door and around the corner as hopeful patrons try to snag a table. The restaurant may be known for its baked ham but the menu is full of can’t-miss favorites like po’-boys and the roast beef and debris (pronounced day-bree) sandwich. What exactly is debris? It’s the collected jus from the roasting process that has little bits of tender beef in it; the sandwich gets a healthy slathering of the flavorful liquid which transforms it into something out of this world. If your appetite is yearning for something a tad more substantial, opt for one of the heartier plates like the crawfish étouffée or the filé gumbo. Service can be a little abrupt but patience will be handsomely rewarded with mouth-watering food and one of Mother’s famous paper hats as a souvenir.
Where to stay: The Higgins Hotel offers a masterclass in art deco style. The posh hotel boasts warm quarters and grand suites.
FRENCH MARKET/VIEUX CARRÉ
Café du Monde (800 Decatur St.)
The well-traveled usually avoid tourist traps but if there is one such place that deserves a visit, this famed café is the one. The 24/7 café serves coffee and beignets only and you haven’t lived until you’ve had a cup of traditional New Orleans coffee and chicory and a fresh-from-the-fryer beignet dredged in powdered sugar. Located in the French Market, this is the original location (though there are several dotted in and around the city) and is always packed so it’s best to perfectly time your visit and get your beignet fix during off-peak hours or make a late-night run. Be sure to grab plenty of napkins—it’s going to get messy and if your clothes are covered in powdered sugar by the time you’re finished eating, you’ve done something right.
Where to stay: If you’re looking for a bit of French flair, Hotel Mazarin is the ideal place to call your temporary home. The boutique hotel offers a plein air courtyard that transports travelers to another era.
TREME/LAFITTE
Dooky Chase’s (2301 Orleans Ave.)
The name of this restaurant often makes the uninitiated giggle but there’s some serious cooking going in the popular comfort food stronghold. Presidents, politicians, and a host of celebrities have dined here. Be forewarned: You will most certainly have to wait in the long sidewalk line before you even cross the threshold at the institution once helmed by celebrated (and recently departed) culinarian Leah Chase. Be thankful that once you do score a seat you won’t have to make any difficult decisions; there’s a lunch buffet served Tuesday through Saturday so you won’t have the tough task of choosing just one entrée from the menu—you can sample a bit of everything.
Where to stay: The Inn at the Old Jail is one of the city’s most unique properties. Housed in a former police jail and patrol station, the 9-room boutique hotel recently underwent a total renovation and offers a lesson in New Orleans lore to both curious travelers and history buffs alike.
Book a hotel with free cancellation in case you need to change your plans at the last minute.
